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Great Southern Trail - The October 2003 Newsletter TRAIN
OF THOUGHT by
Garry McMahon
As an
eighteen year old student in 1955 I headed off from Listowel for the Big
Smoke to commence my legal studies.
The steam engine train was the mode of conveyance and there was a
big family ceremony as I was accompanied to the station to see me off
for my great adventure. The
train pulled in right opposite the large raised tank and was filled with
water to provide the steam to drive the engine and turn the wheels.
The carriages consisted of self contained compartments.
No access along the train was possible, so one had to ensure that
bladder and bowel were emptied prior to the journey otherwise one would
have an anxious time in a station along the way in case the train pulled
out in the middle of ablutions. I
remember my late father telling me of an adventurous train journey he
had in 1926 when he went to Dublin to see Kerry and Kildare playing in
the All Ireland Football final. He
recalled how himself and some other high blooded youths blackguarded a
venerable old gentleman on the train on the way down.
This person, however, proved to be made of stern stuff and won
them over, to such an extent, that when they reached the station in
Rathkeale the young ruffians, being so full of admiration for him,
shouldered him out of the station where he proceeded to give an
impromptu speech from the pier of the gate. This person my father in time found out to be the late D. J.
Madden of Rathkeale, a well known politician and noted orator of his
time. He also
told me that on the same occasion when they were leaving Rathkeale
Station they saw the glow in the Southern sky which they after learned
came from the catastrophic fire in Dromcollogher Cinema in which up to
thirty eight people perished. In
those days of it was always wise to sit with one’s back to the engine. If the window was opened and let down a notch or two, on the
big leather strap, there was a danger if you were sitting facing the
engine that smuts from the fire would get into your eye, a not uncommon
occurrence. In 1961
when I came to Newcastle West to start my legal practice I travelled by
steam train and vividly recall the journey through the tunnel in Barna,
which was slightly unnerving for a little while until the train emerged
out in to the daylight again. I
remember an old resident of Templeglantine telling me of a neighbour of
his in the Barna area who was going to America, a daunting journey to
undertake at the time, as may considered they would never return again.
Rather than boarding the train at Barna, the station nearest his
home, he went back as far as Devon Road Station so that he could bid his
last farewell to the length and breadth of his native Parish rather than
leave from its perimeter. A
touching tale indeed. When we
were still under British rule Paddy the porter at Listowel Station was
under orders that if a parcel came for the Big House that he would
immediately have to deliver it (one imagines in a horse and long car
which conveyance I remember myself delivering goods around the town
decades later). At all
events, one hot July day Paddy hit off for the Cooke household in
Tanavalla outside Listowel. When
he arrived he took down the big parcel from the long car and rang the
bell. Mrs Cooke answered herself with two King Charles spaniels at heel.
Paddy heaved in the big parcel and laid it down inside in the
drawing room and was asked by the lady of the house which would he
prefer whiskey or brandy. With
his tongue out Paddy replied “Brandy mam”.
One can only imagine his chagrin when the response came “you
are quite right he is much the nicer dog”! The
steam train has always evoked romantic pictures in the world of Balladry
and I often think of the wonderful description in the Boston Burglar
which goes – “they
put me on an East bound train,
one cold December day,
and every station I passed by you could hear the people say, there
goes the Boston Burglar in cold chains he is bound, for one crime or
another he is bound for Charlestown” I also
recall another ballad of D.J. Allman who was shot at Headford Station
near Rathmore, County of Kerry, in the War of Independence – “who
stood upon the platform bold and fired the signal gun,
who fought and died for Ireland it was you my darling son”
(who remembers the transferred epithet from the English grammar days
i.e. “platform bold”?) Of
course the most wonderful couplet of all occurs in the ballad The Vales
of New Direen – “and
now to conclude these ill penned lines for fear I might be late,
the morning train leaves Ardagh at twenty five past eight” I
myself have entered in the train/ballad territory with a recent
composition – “Oh
the Summers were fine and the bright sun did shine,
In those days of my youth I now fondly recall, The
songs and the stories, the hard earned glories,
I gleaned with my trusty camán, My dear
parents’faces, the trip to the races,
On the line to Listowel in the steam engine train,
As the leaves keep on falling, sweet voices are calling, Come
back to Newcastle again!” I
congratulate the Great Southern Trail Group on the Herculean efforts to
keep the memories of the railway alive and to ensure that future
generations appreciate the history and romance of the line.
One hopes that the amenity will continue to be provided and
improved upon for generations yet unborn.
Gura Fada Buan Sibh! WORK
IN PROGRESS. Since
June, 2002, we have a Licence from CIE to operate 2 ½ miles from
Newcastle West to Ardagh. This
section had become very overgrown and needed a lot of remedial work.
A group of 6 International Volunteers commenced the process by
re-decking the bridge over the River Daar, 1 km out from Newcastle West
Station House in July, 2002. On
the 2nd of September, 2002 hedge and grass cutting began and
the route was cleared for the Heritage Week walk.
Subsequent work in the Autumn/Winter saw the erection of som
security barriers as well as the resurfacing of a particularly wet
stretch. A
large 8’ x 4’ sign was also erected at the Trail entrance near
Newcastle West. In total over 5000.00 euro of GST Funds were used in these
basic improvements. The
availability of this walking route has enabled us to host 25 organised
walks over the past twelve months (including walks each Wednesday
evening from Easter to the end of August.) The
aforementioned International Volunteers again visited West Limerick in
July, 2003. This year the individuals were new to the area but equally
hard working. The team of
five girls took on the task of rebuilding a previously demolished bridge
at Tullig Wood, 5 miles to the east of Abbeyfeale, using a combination
of old railway timbers and some new material.
Together with some experienced local aid they had the new
structure ready for an official opening on Bank Holiday Monday, August 4th
which was attended by in excess of 60 people.
The tape was cut by Miss Máire Ní Chearmada, Joint Treasurer
GST and the bridge was blessed by Fr. Tom Hurley P.P. Tampleglantine.
The result is that a further 2.5 miles walk is new readily
accessible in one of the most scenic locations along the GST and was
walked by groups on each Monday in August. The
third work project has been at Barnagh Tunnel, 4 miles West of Newcastle
West. The 5000.00 euro grant given by the Heritage Council in 2002
enabled a comprehensive study of the flora and fauna of the tunnel and
its approaches to be undertaken. Contributions
by Mr. Geoff Hunt, Mr. Robert Imbusch, Mr. Conor Kelleher, Dr. Julian
Reynolds and Mrs. Sylvia Reynolds were edited by Dr. John Breen of U.L.
and published in a 48 page A4 report including 10 colour photographs.
This report was launched on February 1st as part of
the railway anniversary weekend (of which more anon) Copies are
available at 5.00 euro (+ 1 euro postage) from Liam O’Mahony, 9 Bishop
Street, Newcastle West, Co. Limerick. The
Heritage Council have continued their support in 2003 by allocating a
further 7500.00 euro to enhance access to the tunnel and to implement
conservation measures designed to encourage growth in the bat
population. The award was
accepted by Vice-Chairman, Denis McAuliffe at Kilkenny on July 22nd
2003. These works will be
undertaken in the near future. In
all of these locations we wish to thank CIE for their approval of the
improvement works. Further
it is heartening to record the co-operation of the adjoining landowners
with whom we hope to work in partnership.
Together we will monitor the activities along the Trail to ensure
that it will be a safe and relaxing route for all users and neighbours. WALKS/TOURS
ETC. Alongside
these development, the programme of walks and outings has continued
apace. In 2002 we had 15 public events plus a group visit to Germany
attracting a total participation of about 400 people. In 2003, to date,
this has grown to 30 events plus a weekend in County Down and a further
visit to Germany. These
have had combined attendances of about 800 people. The
first major event of 2003 was a weekend commemoration of the 40th
anniversary of the withdrawal of passenger train services.
It commenced with a film/slide show at Leens Hotel, Abbeyfeale on
31st January where complimentary food and music was provided. The large attendance included several former CIE employees
led by Mr. Joe Geraghty the last Station Master at Abbeyfeale/Newcastle
West. On 1st
February there was a visit to Barnagh Tunnel followed by the launch of
the Ecological report already mentioned. Finally
on Sunday 2nd February, 40 years to the day after the final
regular passenger train, over fifty people braved a most inclement
winter’s day to walk in the path of the train from Ardagh to Newcastle
West where welcome hospitality was provided at the restored Station
House (courtesy of Don and Jan Quinn Freyberg) by the Newcastle West
Arts Committee. A
commemorative 8 page A4 booklet was also provided for the weekend. Such
was the interest that a further railway archival film show is planned
for Friday 12th March, 2004 at the Devon Hotel,
Templeglantine at 8.00p.m. On
the Bank Holiday weekend (3rd to the 5th of May)
seventeen GST supporters went by train from Charleville to Newry and
fransferred to Warrenpoint, Co. Down as a base.
Walks in the Silent Valley (Mourne Mountains), Castlewellan
Demesne, Tanderagee-Poyntzpass (Newry Canal Towpath) and Dundrum Bay (in
the tracks of the old Belfast and Co. Down Railway) were complemented by
a coach tour of the Mourne area as well as Sliabh Gullion in Co. Armagh. In
West Limerick walks from Newcastle West-Ardagh line, “Dawn Chorus”
with Geoff Hunt (5.00 a.m. Sunday 11th May) Barnagh
Station-Devon Road (25th May) and Barnagh Tunnel-Glenquin
Castle (15th June) kept people fit for the 5 night visit to
Germany. Flying
from Kerry Airport to Hahn on 24th the group of 24 enjoyed
brilliant weather throughout. The old 25 mile railway line, centred on
our base town of Kastellaun, was walked and cycled and cruises were made
on the Rhine and Mosel. Visita were made to the cities of Trier and Luxembourg and
time was also available for activities as diverse as Open Air Classical
Concerts and Flea Markets. Back
in Ireland a very enjoyable afternoon was spent on Sunday 20th
July when John Breen, Julian and Sylvia Reynolds effortlessly conducted
a nature study of Barnagh Tunnel/Tullig Wood. Heritage
week events were held on Sun. 7th Sept. at Barnagh Tunnel
with storyteller Eddie Lenihan and on Sunday 14th Sept. when
the Newcastle West-Ardagh linr esd eslkrf. The
success of these events would not have been possible without the support
of the various media. There
was also a positive response to the featuring of the GST on the RTE 1
“Townlands” series in a programme narrated by Damien Enright
entitled “Beaten Paths”. It
was televised on 24th July 2002 and repeated on 11th
April 2003. ADMINISTRATION Meanwhile
the mundane administrative work of the group had also to be
accommodated. The AGM of
the Action Group was held on October 4th 2002 with the
following officers being elected Cathaoirleach – Liam O’Mahony; Rúnaí
– Mike MacDomhnaill, (069) 62597; Asst. Secretary – Elsa hallinan
(061) 392619; Joint Treasurers – Máire Ní Chearmada, Pádraig Ó
Condúin; Environmental Officer – Jim McNamara. Web
site: www.southerntrail.pro.ie
and E-mail: southerntrail@eircom.net.There
were three other routine meetings of the Action Group on 24/1/03.
16/4/03 with the average attendance of 16. Contact
has been maintained with both Kerry and Limerick County Councils and we
welcome the inclusion of the Tralee-Mount Hawk section of the GST in the
draft Tralee Town Plan. We
also look forward to the provision of access from the R521 to the Trail
at Newcastle West by Limerick County Council and to improvements at
Barnagh Lay-By. Representatives
of the GST met with officials of Kerry County Council at the launch of
the “Sive” walk in Listowel on July 8th 2003.
This route which was favoured by the late J.B. Keane includes
about one mile of the GST on the outskirts of Listowel (near the newly
opened Lartigue Railway to which we wish a very successful future). A
submission to West Limerick Resources Ltd. for grant aid on a complete
resurfacing and repairs along the Newcastle West-Ardagh route has
resulted in a grant of approximately 20,000.00 euro towards the project
which is currently being undertaker by the contractors, Messrs. Leens of
Ashford. FINANCES The
overall budget for this major refurbishment is 40,000 euro which means
that the GST is actively seeking 20,000 euro!!
As mentioned earlier a considerable amount of our own
resources/funds has already been spent on the Newcastle West-Ardagh line
and works at Templeglantine and Barnagh have also consumed scarce funds. On
top of this expenditure we have to pay a licence fee to CIE and insure
the walkers along the Trail and on our Outings.
Then there is the cost of printing and distributing our various
Newsletters and Christmas cards. In
the past the proceeds of out Church gate collections (in Co. Limerick)
(3119.00 euro in 2002) together with the surplus from our tours has been
sufficient but we are in need of funds on a much larger scale and so for
the first time ever we are making a direct appeal to you, our
supporters. We should all
be delighted that the situation is so good that we need these monies.
The success of these pilot schemes will encourage the further
development of the rest of the GST and your positive response will
enable us to approach the Local Authorities, Shannon Development and
Government for increased funding because this is the norm everywhere
else in the E.U. that we have visited. While
we’re discussing finance we would like our Kerry Supporters to
organise Church Gate collections in North Kerry so as to enable us to
move forward with a couple of pilot stretches in the Kingdom.
To advance this it is important that we have a representative
attendance at the AGM OF THE ACTION GROUP WHICH WILL BE HELD AT HALLA
INSE BÁN, TEMPLEGLANTINE ON FRIDAY, 17TH OCTOBER AT 8.00
p.m. Finally, Míle buíochas
for the monies collected at Co. Limerick Church Gates in 2003: Ardagh
(230) Templeglantine, (392), Newcastle West (1492). Other
church gate collection will be at Abbeyfeale 4/5 October and Rathkeale
22/23 November. Remember that 2004 is an election year for Town and
County Councils as well as the European Parliament.
Thus it is an opportune time to ask our politicians to explain
why this is the only rail-trail (that we are aware of) in the E.U. that
is spearheaded by a voluntary group.
We hope to invite the candidates opinions as to why Waterford
County Council can purchase ovewr twenty five miles of the old
Waterford-Dungarvan railway from CIE and plan its development for
walking cycling and pony-trekk8ing while their counterparts in Limerick
and Kerry sit on the fence. THE
LAST TRAIN FROM ARDAGH BY MARTIN BYRNES
Saturday. February 2, 1963 was a gloomy, drizzly evening. As it should
be, for we were about to say goodbye to an old friend. Four people stood
on the station platform at Ardagh, peering along the lonesome track
curving away towards Rathkeale. They were huddled beside the ticket
hatch as a cold mist swirled. They had walked the four miles from
Newcastle West just to board a train; the last scheduled passenger train
from Limerick to Tralee. The four were Mrs. Anne and her son, Liam O’Mahony of Bishop Street,
Newcastle West, my father and I, from Maiden Street, Liam and I were
eleven years old. I had brought our two family terriers, Barney and
Titch. The two dogs were used to train travel, but more of that anon. We
six, dogs included, were to be the last passengers ever to board a train
at Ardagh. Saturday, February 2, 1963 was also to be the last day of
Ardagh as a station. Even the goods service would no longer stop there
and the sole member of staff, Kevin Magee, would be transferred. In
truth, Ardagh rarely had a goods wagon off in recent times, and its
passenger numbers had also been slight, The train that evening consisted of two railcars, back-to-back in
push-me-pull-you formation, a flicker of yellow through the windows as
it drew to a halt before us. We said our goodbyes to Kevin Magee,
boarded the almost empty carnage and the door slammed shut. Beneath our feet the engine growled
with power, and we moved away from the few lights of the station and
glided under the bridge into darkness. Father smoked an Afton, and the
dogs were made much of by the few
other passengers on the train. A man
who was
traveling as far as Listowel told us
that he was
coming from England. Rivulets of water streaked the windows
as we
watched our reflections in
the glass~. It took about eight minutes
to go from Ardagh to Newcastle West,
and the wheel-clack echoed as we
slowed under the double bridge. No bands, no fireworks. The driver
left his cab and chatted with John Whelan the checker and they walked
down to the other end of the little train and, as we walked down the
avenue towards the town, we heard the revving of the engine. a hooter
blast, and the train passed through the Kerry eye of the bridge and
away. It was
a sad and gloomy end, and somehow almost
appropriate. I had been fascinated from my
earliest recollection. Just as I had lain in bed as a youngster and had
listened to the airliners of the world drone overhead in the night,
linking two great continents through Shannon, and had known that the
world was larger than the humdrum reach of my tricycle, so too the train
was
exotic and those twin arches of the bridge fanned out
to a wide world. Our school was right beside the railway station, and
engine-chuffing and steam whistles and clang-shunting punctuated our
classes. Most of my dealings with trains were happy ones - being taken to see Santa at
Todds, steam and smoke billowing outside as at the pictures, with a slap
-up lunch at the Savoy; a school tour to Dublin and the Zoo; a day of
confused excitement of sights and smells and sounds at Listowel races.
We did not associate the station, as so many did, as a point of departure to seek one’s
fortune in a different land. And then there
was the fact that we kept a small
sweet shop which closed on Wednesday
afternoons. If the day was dry, parents. dogs and I, liked
taking a walk on Wednesdays, and school finished in enough time for us
to walk ‘out’ to Ardagh and, as a treat, take the train home.
Aboard, Mother ‘took the weight off her feet’. Usually, we were the
only passengers. Maybe a dozen times a year, we would do it. for
the few years that it lasted.
and we didn’t really object when the adult fare was increased from 4d
to 7d. and the child fare to 4d. the dogs traveled free. I was an impatient child and, as soon as I got my first proper bicycle,
all the surrounding towns and sights immediately came within my compass.
My involvement with the station also grew in stages. initially through
collecting cartons of cigarettes and of Lemon’s sweets from Davy
Greanev’s goods store and bringing them home through the streets on
the handlebars of my bike. After that school pal Liam and I progressed
to riding in the guards van as it was shunted vigorously so that a
goods train could be rebuilt to face the other way for departure: thence
to traveling on the plate to cross with an up-train and. finally, to
going hands-on to the great controls themselves during shunted sometimes
even without the driver in attendance. •
Many thanks to Martin Byrnes, Deputy Editor of the Limerick Leader for
his memories of the Ardagh Passenger trains. The
G.S.T. is commemorating the fortieth anniversary of the closure of
Ardagh. Barnagh, Devon Road and Kilmorna Stations with the following
events:- *
Fri.
31st. Jan. at 9.00p.m.: Leen’s Hotel, Abbeyfeale, for
a sharing of Railway Memories to which former Railway Personnel and
their families are especially invited. *
Sat.
1st. Feb. at 2.30p.m.: Barnagh Tunnel Visit: Assemble at lay-by N2l, 4 miles west of Newcastle West. *
Sat.
1st. Feb. at 4.00p.m.: Devon Inn Hotel, Templeglantine, where
we will launch an Ecological Study of Barnagh Tunnel Habitats (edited by
Dr. John Breen, Life Science Dept., U.L. and grant aided by the Heritage
Council) *
Sun.
2nd. Feb. at 230p.m.: Ardagh Railway Station, where 40 years to the day after the last regular
passenger train, we will retrace the railway path by walking to
Newcastle West station (1 hour).
All
are welcome to these events which are free of charge.
*
A
‘Percy French’ Concert is also planned for Newcastle West on the
same weekend.
•
Our trips abroad have proven to be hugely enjoyable. In 2003 we will be
returning to Kastellaun, Germany for 4 or 5 nights during the period
20th. -
30th.
June, 2003. (D.V.) The cost of €400 approx will include direct flights
Shannon-Hahn with B&B, 3* Hotels. A deposit of €150 is necessary
to secure a place. It is hoped to visit Warrenpoint, Co. Down for the
May Bank Holiday weekend. Contact:
Elsa Hallinan at (061) 392619 (Evenings).
•
G.S.T. T-Shirts
at
€7.00 from Pat Condon/Máire Ni Chearmada. •
Visit the G.S.T. website at www.southerntrail.net • Cover Photograph: The Railway Bridge over the Old Barnagh Road in
Winter. |
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